Sunday, April 7, 2013

Supreme Beings

Diana Ross, Mary Wilson, and Cindy Birdsong
Did you ever belt out “You Keep Me Hanging On” or “Love Child” in the shower?  Maybe you shouted your way through “Stop! In The Name of Love” on a drunken dare at a Karaoke joint?  If you can answer yes to either question and/or you love fashion, you had to see “Come See About Me,” a small but meaty exhibit of The Supremes gowns collected by Mary Wilson. 

The Supremes (nee The Primettes) were the top selling group at Motown in the 1960s.  The six divas (Diana Ross, Florence Ballard, Mary Wilson, later Cindy Birdsong, Jean Terrell, and Scherrie Payne) offered the world style and glamour on a magnitude never before seen in popular music. 

In their early days, Ms. Ross, Ms. Ballard, and Ms. Wilson made it a point to choose dresses that were a step up from what the average shopper could buy in the local department stores.  Their popularity rose during the 1960s and their daytime style evolved from modest sweaters and pencil skirts to crocheted mini skirts and thigh-high boots.  Evening/stage wear moved from sleek, elegant gowns to beaded mini dresses and bell-bottomed jumpsuits.  Early Supremes style also featured black wigs teased to a towering six inches.  Maybelline was the fourth Supreme.  Thick winged eyeliner and cheek-dusting lashes added to the girls’ allure and was as important as vocal harmony.

Their early style influences included Sophia Loren, Ruth Brown, Dakota Staton, and Jean Harlow.  Their costumes sprang from the minds from the hottest talent of the era, including designer Michael Travis, a former apprentice of Bob Mackie, choreographer Geoffrey Holder, and Mr. Mackie himself.  The sequin trees were picked clean under their watch.  Magical hands combined yards of velvet and chiffon with barrels of glass beads to create sparkling confections that every Barbie envied.

Many of the gowns on display were worn on 1960s TV variety shows such as "The Ed Sullivan Show," "The Hollywood Palace," and "The Flip Wilson Show."  The “Butterfly Gown” was designed for the NBC-TV special "TCB" (Taking Care of Business).  Check out the floor-length beaded sheath with a cape in the pic below.


My favorite images from the exhibit include a terrific photo montage featuring Diana Ross in a fierce metallic trench coat with matching boots; a promotional poster from the 1970s of Mary Wilson, Cindy Birdsong and Jean Terrell in carefully coiffed Afros; and the “Black Diamond Trench Coat” which rode the military style trend of the late 1960s.  This traffic-stopper is made of lustrous black silk and wool with sequin and rhinestone covered buttons.

The 1970s--post Diana Ross--featured bolder Supreme styles such as a deep purple jumpsuit with street sweeper bell bottoms and a snug little bolero jacket.  Gowns featured layers of feathers or pleats that made the wearer look as if she were floating above the floor.  There were cotton candy-colored gowns with an East African motif.

The Supremes were wonderful clothes horses.  They looked exceptional at a time when the world view of black women was one of us wearing rags on our heads and cradling mops.  Their clothes were exquisitely tailored and elegant.  The girls rocked brilliant sapphire suits, sumptuous white fur stoles, and leopard pillbox hats during the day, and shimmered in pearls, satin and exquisite lace onstage.  Yep--they were divas and this exhibit proves it!

Florence Ballard, Mary Wilson, Diana Ross

The "Butterfly" Dress
Treasures
Walking on Air

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Get Your Motor Runnin’

The reconstructed biker jackets for Fall 2013 that were just featured in the Paris fashion shows are the perfect Easter 2013 accessory for the chilly northeastern United States.  A little leather, a little flannel, long sleeves and zippered pockets to stuff your icy hands into.  What could be more appropriate for a late-arriving spring?

Novel Graphics

One of the hottest trends for spring 2013 is the classic pairing of black and white.  This high impact look is always right, day or night.  This ain’t a delicate floral print or dainty dotted swiss--the trend is a sophisticated, graphically bold statement.  This is style in high definition featuring broad stripes and crisp blocks of contrast. Many of the styles are mod 60s inspired motifs that remind me of Op Art--geometry, positive and negative space given equal prominence, clean lines and shapes.

Keep your accessories minimal but strong if you plan to rock this style.  Consider a structured yellow bag. Go for Vampira-red lip and nails or a retro-inspired geometric bob for the finishing touch.

You can find this look everywhere: H&M and Topshop dresses, Rag and Bone jeans, White House Black Market everything. Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and others marched these looks down the runway, and you can march them right into your closet.


Friday, March 8, 2013

Hot Lips

Jennifer Hudson
“Hot” is THE shade of pink for lip color this spring.  It’s seen on the most photographed pouts.  It’s a shade that flatters many skin tones and gives tribute to the fabulous Elsa Schiaparelli.  Keep in mind that if you’re wearing one hot color on your face, you can prevent the circus look by going neutral on eyes and cheeks. Check out these fabulous colors and get hot:  Manic Panic Hot Hot Pink; Sephora Rouge Cream Lipstick Love Test 11; L’Oreal Colour Riche Pink Cashmere; MAC Perpetual Flame; and NARS Shiap Lipstick.

Flamingos, Peacocks, and Bluebirds

The runways and racks are vibrant with color this season.  Crayola enthusiasts--the year is yours again.  Designers haven’t gotten tired of rainbows! 

Brilliant blues, riotous reds and gorgeous greens are amazing mood lifters and entirely appropriate after winter’s slushy grey and black mood.  Walking into a store this season is like diving headfirst into a kaleidoscope, but, oh what a trip it is!  Oscar de la Renta, Tracy Reese, and Proenza Schouler were inspired by the hues found in handmade quilts, lush forests, Eastern culture, photography, and pop culture.  And yeah, Pantone’s website is ultra cool.  Dusk blue, emerald, lemon zest, poppy red and African violet are some of their favorite hues this season.

Go ahead and jump into the jade pencil skirt, or punch up your attitude with purple patent pumps. Think a minute--would daffodils be as beautiful if they were grey?  Is a monochrome sunset breathtaking? Which bird would you prefer looking at--a pigeon or a cardinal?

So, here’s what I want you to do--color yourself glamorous and slip into that lemon zest jacket.  It’ll put spring into your step.